martes, julio 17, 2012
-BRUSHFIRE: CHIPMUNK CHAINGUNTEAM.
Nueva miniaturas en la web de On The Lamb Games de equipo de ardillas de Mare Civitas con una ametralladora.
Ya elegimos tanto garou_den como yo las bandas que íbamos a usar, pero cuando salen figuras como esta te hacen replantear tu elección. Creo que todas las miniaturas de On The Lamb Games son geniales, y pienso que esa es la palabra que mejor encaja. En esta entrada se ve todo su pintado. Espero que os guste tanto como a nosotros.
(uploaded by Gymnogyps)
My general theory when painting to a table top standard is to figure out a rough color scheme, and try to keep it as simple as possible while getting the most mileage and variation out of it, all while making it as fast as possible. When painting these I followed a few general guidelines:
1: As little color mixing as possible and no mixing for uniform sections. I don’t want to take notes on what colors are mixed for each section, so if I want more little guys in the same scheme for my army I want to just pick up the bottles and run.
2: No more than 1 base coat, 2 highlights and a wash for each area. Only 1 highlight is preferable.
3: Use as few colors as possible. Combinations of base colors, highlights and washes should do the trick.
4: Use base colors to tie the models together. Similar colors with slightly different highlights and washes will still tie parts of the model together. You won’t see it, but your brain will.
After that, I pretty much planned to wing it. I knew I wanted to stick with the red and yellow uniform theme from the Capybara Marines and Capitaine I had done before, and that the art work had these chippers in khaki pants, yellow jackets with red wrist bands, while the gun itself was mostly iron. Good enough.
Keeping to my plan of limiting color selection to keep things moving, I used only 20 paints and washes. I used both Vallejo and Games Workshop paints. I like GW’s metallics, washes, Foundations, and Skull White, but otherwise prefer Vallejo’s Model Color line. A full list of the paints used is at the end.
To start with I primed the models grey with Rust-oleum Automobile Primer. I like using this medium grey as it splits the difference between white and black primer pretty well, allowing good bright colors and good dark ones. I don’t generally use either White or Black on my models if I can avoid it, so leaving black primer showing in the shadows isn’t my thing.
After I primed, I cleaned up all the little bits of mold line and flash I missed the first time. In the above picture you can see a partially painted Tharn Bloodtracker model for scale. Note that I didn’t follow the rule about as few colors as possible on that model, which is why it is not finished, much less the rest of them.
After re-cleaning, I put down a base coat of Chocolate Brown on the wood sections of the gun carriages and a thinned layer on the Chipmunks. I am not entirely certain of how I want to do the chips at this point, but I do know they will be brown, and a bit of brown makes a fine base for khakis and yellows of natural origin anyway.
Also note, I am a REALLY messy painter. I know I am going to screw up and get paint where I don’t want it, and paint in an order such that I can easily touch up mistakes at a later process.
Next, I am going to apply Boltgun metal to all the metallic areas of the models, the chainguns themselves, the chipmunks’ pauldrons, shin guards and boxes. The gunners have goggles and little gorgets as well, and the assistants have big belt buckles too (must be from Texas). Now, one thing I keep in mind while doing this is that metallic paints are somewhat hard to cover up, so I am a bit careful here. Also, one of the strange things with metallic paint is that the metal parts that give it its shine are flakes, not round balls, so to get a good shine you need to put the paint down and then not touch it so they lay flat. If you disturb it afterwards you can get the flakes standing on end which makes it look very dull. After the metallic pain goes down, I add the Iyanden Darksun to the coats and Green Ochre to the pants. Both of these cover well, so the metallic accidents I might have had are covered easily.
Now I wanted to add a little more visual interest to the gun carriages, so I did the muzzle thing, the bullet casings and some random bits in Dwarf Bronze. The chipmunk gunners are going to have brassy gorgets, but I am going to do that a different way, leaving them boltgun for now. I also decided that I was going to do a simple, Chip ‘n’ Dale style of chipmunk, so I painted on little black man-panties and bow ties. Then I remembered what I was doing, and put them back to how they were before adding Beige to the cheeks, hands and undersides of the tail. I also put a layer of Chocolate Brown on the assistant’s straps, but that is going to change.
Next I highlighted the Bronze with Shining Gold. This is a pretty solid highlight on the upper surfaces, more than you can see in the picture. A little Bronze shows through on the upper surfaces, but mostly it is gold. Likewise, I added Chainmail to the upper parts of the Boltgun Metal. Chainmail is very bright comparatively and lays a lot flatter, so it ends up looking very bright.
Next, I dry brushed on some Green Oche, applying it to the wooden prows of the gun carriages as well as the wooden section between the spokes of the wheels. The prow has excellent wood grain carved in so that is very simple, but the wheels don’t, so make sure your brush is dry and let the stiff bristles draw in some grain. My choice of brush wasn’t ideal for that, but it sort of worked. Green ochre is a great color for this too, as it not only adds a little organic feel, but is going to subtly tie the pants of the chips to the gun.
As a note, while I don’t usually like dry brushing as a technique, it does work really well for hair and fur, wood grain and coarse clothing, so I end up doing it a lot on these models. In the above picture you can see one reason why I don’t like it: it gets messy, like on the edging of the prow there on the left. I cleaned that up easily with the mithril though, as metallic paint covers browns really well.
Next, I am going to finish up the gun carriages by adding a wash of Ogryn Flesh to the brassy areas and a wash of Devlan Mud to the steel and wood sections. I like using Devlan Mud for utilitarian metals like swords, guns and the like because it gives the impression of a slight brown patina that most ferric metals get when they are not perfectly protected by the rain, but still taken care of. One could also use Badab Black, but I prefer the warmer tone.
Now, the carriages pretty much done, it is time for the chips. Here I did a little color mixing, adding some Dark Sand to the Green Ochre of their pants, and putting down a layer on the higher parts, and then adding straight Dark Sand to the highest spots. You can see in the middle chip that the layering is pretty rough, and I probably could have gotten away with a straight base and highlight instead of mixing. The wash is going to clear this up. Trust me.
After highlighting the pants I changed my mind about the leather sections on the chips, and decided to paint them in Cavalry Brown. It is really a very red brown, and is one of my favorite colors. I just added a bit to the strap on the goggles and the straps of the assistants.
I also painted the base color on the boots and their noses and eyes, using German Grey. This is another fantastic color, as it is almost black, but not quite. The brain perceives it as black when it is next to other colors, but it can be darkend with a black wash to make it deeper, or with a colored wash to give the impression that it is black over a substrate of another color. The latter is my plan here.
I think I also painted the gorgets Mithril silver here at some point, as well as using it to highlight the other metal bits.
I also added some stripes to the chips in various patterns on their backs.
At some point I also decided I was going to do the fur in Chocolate Brown, so I painted that on… don’t remember when.
Next I highlighted the hands, cheeks and light spots on the fur with Skull White. I also mixed a little Chocolate Brown with Dark sand to do the darker fur highlights.
For the eyes, I used a detail brush to make two tiny dots roughly in the middle, to get that reflecting eye effect. The dots also help us figure out where the things are looking, since we expect to see a little white around an iris. Most animals don’t show whites on their eyes except when they are freaking out, so be subtle and stick to a little reflection. Our prefrontal cortex will know what it sees.
Now I did two highlights. Firstly I used Flat Yellow to hightlight the jackets. I don’t want the jackets to look like they are made of neon polyester, so I am keeping to a subdued yellow. It is important in this case because historical models really shouldn’t have super bright colors in general, and definitely not yellows as those dyes were harder to do and really expensive to make bright, comparatively.
Secondly, I used Neutral Grey to highlight the boots and their noses a little.
Apparently I also painted their wrist bands Mechrite Red, and highlighted it with an orange mix of Mechrite and Flat Yellow. You pretty much always want to highlight red with orange, as adding white makes it too pink.
Now comes the big wash. I wanted the chips to have a lighter over all look, so I decided the overall body wash would be Gryphonne Sepia. I applied it to the entire body save the metal bits and leathers. The metals and leather I washed with Devlan Mud again, except for the goggles and gorget. The goggles I am saving for now, and the gorget got the Sepia to give it a slightly brassy look. One that doesn’t really come out in the picture, but using a Mithril Silver than washing a few times with Sepia really gives a nice deep brass look. Trust me.
After the washes had fully dried, it was time for the final touches. I put a very light drybrush of white back on the cheeks and other light spots on the chips to bring the color back up. I then put a light wash of Asuman Blue just on the fronts of the gunner’s goggles. I could have done a lensed/gemstone effect, but that would have taken a while, and though the picture doesn’t really show it much, the blue over the mithril gives a light reflective look without seeming infinitely deep.
Next up a few coats of Testors Dullcote, and it will be on to basing!
Ok, basing time. I want to keep the base simple, since the chain guns already take up nearly all of it and spill over a little. So I am going to take some of the new formula Elmer’s Wood Glue (that can NOT be mixed with water), two large bases, some play sand and some kitty litter.
I use a bit of sprue to spread the glue around, and then add sand, litter and a few stray bits of slate I have laying around. Then I let it dry for an hour or so and go watch South Park and clip bits.
After that dries, I use some of the old style wood glue mixed with water (though white school glue would work) and put another layer on top of what is there, then sprinkle some flocking grass over top. Usually I prime and paint the dirt and rocks before adding flock, but I want to experiment with making slightly swampier looking ground here, so I am going to add the paint after the flock to get it to soak in.
The next step is to forget to take pictures for a little while as I applied some Dark Sand to the sand, some Neutral Grey to the rocks, then washes with a thinned Devlan Mud over most of the surface, leaving only the centers of the flock untouched. I then glued the chipmunks and guns to the bases, then sprinkled a lighter color of flock over it to cover up any stray glue and add a little visual interest. I then applied another layer of Dullcote to seal everything in. After that, it’s all done!
All colors are Vallejo MC unless noted otherwise.
Green Ochre (70914)
Dark Sand (70847)
Flat Yellow (70953)
Chocolate Brown (70872)
Cavalry Brown (70982)
German Grey (70995)
Neutral Grey (70992)
Skull White (GW)
Boltgun Metal (GW)
Mithril Silver (GW)
Dwarf Bronze (GW)
Shining Gold (GW)
Iyanden Darksun (GW)
Mechrite Red (GW)
Asuman Blue (GW)
Gryphonne Sepia (GW)
Devlan Mud (GW)
Ogryn Flesh (GW)
Rust-Oleum Automobile Primer, Grey